The best restaurants in north London right now

Tucked away in leafy Queen’s Park, Lonsdale Road is undoubtedly one of the coolest streets in north west London. Just around the corner from the weekly farmers’ market and the bustling main drag of Salusbury Road, it is a wide, cobblestone street of old stables that have been converted into hip eateries, yoga studios, workshops and houses. Don’t Tell Dad, the brainchild of Coco di Mama co-founder Daniel Land, is the newest kid on the block, having opened in January of this year.

The restaurant is filled with a warm glow from the retro wall lights and has been smartly kitted out with green cord banquettes, parquet flooring and uneven Moroccan zellige tiles, resulting in a welcoming yet stylish space to enjoy the exceptionally executed food by head chef Luke Frankie, previously of Noble Rot. We sat at a high sharing table decorated with an embroidered artwork by local artist Martha Husse. Protected under a glass tabletop, the textile piece was commissioned for the restaurant and affectionately pokes fun at the stereotypical Queen’s Park lifestyle with whimsical renderings of Planet Organic, Italian greyhounds and suchlike.

There truly wasn’t a weak link among anything on the menu that we tried. Highlights include the truffle and cheddar beignet appetiser (a moreish, umami mouthful of carb and cheese) and the tea smoked trout starter served with zingy horseradish and pickles. The lamb main course is cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection, and the Jerusalem artichoke is a smoky partner to the delicate wild bass it is served with. Drinks wise, the rhubarb and almond sour cocktail is a pink confection: sweet, tangy and smooth, best savoured sip by sip. Prices are fair and portions are perfectly pitched, so that we were able to enjoy several courses without feeling too stuffed. The elevated homeliness of the food has a distinct, but not at all unwelcome, echo of St. John about it, down to the freshly baked madeleines, which we are told take 15 minutes to prepare, and are served warm with orange and cream. As well as the main restaurant, Don’t Tell Dad also comprises a bakery, headed up by ex-Layla baker Keren Sternberg.

All in all, the restaurant is a welcome addition to Queen’s Park, deftly straddling both the casual neighbourhood hangout feel, as well as being a smart destination to head to for a special occasion. – Tilly Wheeler